Mercato Centrale Roma: A Food Market at Termini Station

At Rome's busiest train station, there's a place where you can sit down, relax and, above all, eat really well. We stopped by Mercato Centrale Roma around half past one in the afternoon and it was packed: dozens of people at the counters, glasses clinking, the smell of pizza, fried food and coffee in the air. A lively spot that won us over the moment we walked in.

A food market instead of a station snack bar

Mercato Centrale isn't a traditional restaurant but a gourmet food market. Under one roof there are almost twenty counters, each run by an artisan with a signature specialty. You pick whatever tempts you, then sit down at the shared tables in the middle of the hall. One person can have pizza, another pasta and a third just dessert, and you still all eat together.

The concept was born in Florence, where Mercato Centrale has operated since 2014 on the upper floor of the historic San Lorenzo market. The Rome branch opened in autumn 2016 right inside Termini station, and Turin and Milan followed later.

What you can try

The choice is genuinely huge: hot and cold dishes, savoury and sweet, plus wine and beer. Among the counters currently here:

• Trapizzino by Stefano Callegari – a Roman pocket of pizza dough filled with braised meat or vegetables
• Pizza by Luca Mastracci and baked goods by Raffaele D'Errico
• Fried specialities by Arcangelo Dandini (supplì and other Roman classics)
• Neapolitan sfogliatella by Sabato Sessa
• Mozzarella and cheeses by Daniele Meini, truffles by Luciano Savini
• Gelato by Paolo Pomposi
• Grill and roast meats, smash burgers by Joe Bastianich
• Vegetarian and vegan cuisine by Marcella Bianchi
• international counters: Argentinian empanadas, Chinese dumplings, Mediterranean cuisine
• an enoteca, a beer hall and a café

The lineup of counters changes from time to time; the current list is on the market's website.

How it works

• You order and pay directly at the counter, separately at each one.
• You can sit anywhere. There are tables in the main hall and on the floors above. At lunch and dinner time they're reserved for people who have bought something here.
• Drinks are brought to your table. You can order them from the staff or via the QR code on the table.
• If you don't want to queue, you can order your food in advance through the Zerofila service and pick it up at a set time.
• The toilets are on the ground floor, available after a purchase. Dogs are welcome.

A historic hall inside the station

The market is housed in the part of the station known as the Cappa Mazzoniana, named after the architect Angiolo Mazzoni, who designed it in the 1930s. It originally served as a leisure facility for railway workers, so after all these years it has returned to its original role as a place where people meet. Across roughly 1,900 m² there are about 500 seats.

Our tip: a stop before your flight from Fiumicino

We took the Terravision bus to the airport, and its stop is literally a few steps from the market entrance, on the same street, Via Giovanni Giolitti. It's an ideal combination: have a good meal, then simply walk over to the bus. Instead of a rushed, overpriced meal at the airport, plan some extra time at Termini and eat properly here. It's the best finale to Rome we can imagine.

Practical info:

• Terravision bus: departs from Via Giolitti straight to Terminal 3 at Fiumicino, with no stops. The ride takes roughly 45–55 minutes depending on traffic. It's best to buy your ticket online in advance and be at the stop at least 15 minutes before departure. You'll find the current timetable and prices at terravision.eu.
• Train as an alternative: the Leonardo Express departs from the other side of the station (usually platforms 23–24), takes about 32 minutes and costs more. If you're taking the train, allow a few minutes' walk across the station.
• The market: entrance at Via Giovanni Giolitti 36, open daily from 7:30 am to 11:30 pm, so you can make it even before an early-morning or late-evening flight. More at mercatocentrale.com.
• When to come: it's busy at midday and in the afternoon, and we too had to hunt for a spot. Expect it to take a little while to find a table.